Calibration is a protracted work related to maintenance. It must be regularly undertaken on every field instrument in order to ensure smooth functioning and adhere to any regulations.

The duration of calibration can extend from one to four hours for a technician using prevalent techniques. Many large factories and industrial units have thousands of field instruments and hence a substantial part of maintenance time is spent on calibration.

The periodic calibration of instruments is universal. In related spheres where precision instruments are vital to product quality, calibration is generally conducted every six months. Automated calibration processes drastically diminish the time spent on calibration, thereby reducing expenditure.

Radar systems comprise digital, analog, RF, and power electronics that require constant monitoring. Engineers and technicians make use of oscilloscopes, multimeters, spectrum analyzers, network analyzers, frequency counters, RF power meters, and power supplies. They range from the latest and the most sophisticated to out-and-out old in their work.

Each test instrument calls for periodic calibration and maintenance. Calibration laboratories specializing in such skills make sure that the test instruments perform the work in a desired manner. Led by experts, such calibration laboratories often calibrate and maintain a large number of instruments. A substantial number of them perform electronic measurements on lab benches, in production test stations, and on-site.

The National Institute of Standards and Technology has put in place a Standard Reference Manual (SRM) 2696 Silica Fume to evaluate the preciseness of prevailing laboratory practices and offer a tool for instrument calibration. Experts have lauded this, as it will help reduce flawed testing. This can be achieved through simplifying the test process through standardization, and furnishing the user with trustworthy data.

There are several electronic parts which are found in nearly every circuit. These electronic parts include capacitors, resistors, and inductors. Capacitors are created from the conductors and they are used for storing the charge. Resistors are created from the materials like carbon or metals and they are used for limiting the current in a circuit. Inductors are created from the coils of wire and they are used for producing the magnetic fields. One of the most common devices that can be used to test them is called digital multimeter. Actually, there are some inexpensive ways that can be used for measuring all of them. Just check out the following tips to easily test electronic parts.

As the first step, you should locate the multimeter on the setting of the ohmmeter in order to test the resistor. The setting is commonly indicated by the letter Greek omega. If you already know the resistor, you can choose the setting which is equal to or higher than it. Meanwhile, if you do not know the value, you can choose the lowest setting.

As the second step, you should measure the resistance and then record it. What you have to do is to place the probe on the each lead of the resistor. If you cannot get the reading, you can try to adjust the setting on multimeter until you can do.

The third step is to place multimeter on capacitor setting. It is commonly indicated by letter F. If you already know the value of the capacitor, you can choose the setting which is equal to or higher than it. However, if you do not know the value, you can choose the lowest setting.

The fourth step is to measure the capacitance and then record it. You can do it by inserting the each lead to the proper slot. You have to make sure that the leads are long enough to fit firmly.

The fifth step is to locate multimeter on inductor setting. It is commonly indicated by letter H. If you already know the value of inductor, you can choose the setting which is equal to or higher than it. However, if you cannot find the value, you can choose the lowest setting.

For the last step, you should measure the inductance and record it. It can be done by inserting the each lead to the proper slot. You should ensure that the leads are long enough to firmly fit. If the reading cannot be obtained, you can adjust the setting on multimeter until you can do.

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Review - 1000 Amp Digital Clamp Meter Tester Multimeter

• 3 1/2 digit LCD display
• Data hold
• AC Current: .1A - 1000A
• Resistance measurement: max 20K ohms
• Comes with case, leads and manual

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I turn on my laptop and it loads to the login screen. I have Windows XP Professional and the laptop is a Satelite M35X-S109 from Toshiba. When I login about less than 1 minute the computer freezes. I tried to turn the computer on and off, but it frezzes. I think I had somthing to do when i downloaded virus protection from sbc dsl.

Try rebooting and using "Safe Mode", this is accessible by pressing the F8 key repeatedly before Windows starts to load (you know you have it right when a menu pops up that asks if you want to load windows or run in safe mode along with a few other options), choose Safe Mode (not safe mode command prompt only or safe mode with Networking Support). The touch pad (or trackball) will probably not work and the screen will look funny. Go into the control panel and remove that software and reboot. That may fix it, if not while in safe mode run system restore (Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, System Restore) and choose a date prior to installing that software.

I own a Sony Vaio Laptop and I am having CD drive problems. I insert a CD and now it doesn't recognise it being inserted on the computer. Have tried multiple CDs, checked My Computer numerous times and still nothing.

You've probably been told already, but a CD lens cleaner can work wonders. You might also try a blast of Spray air in the side. If there's a hair or dust on the lens it will not be able to "see" the Disc. Other than this, the laser may be out of alignment.

The screen display has turned from landscape to portrait and I am having to turn my head to wiew the screen.

Sounds like the display settings got changed. Right click an empty spot on your desktop and choose properties from the menu that opens. This will open the display properties window. Somewhere in there should be a setting for screen rotation or similar worded setting that will allow you to change the orientation.

I have a Gateway laptop that's just barely a year old. The other day, I went to turn it on, and nothing happened! It was working fine prior to that day. Someone said that it could be a surge problem. Any ideas?

You could try to remove the battery and try getting it to work on AC power alone. If that works then try plugging the battery in and turning it back on. If it doesn't work with the battery and works without it then I suspect the battery may be defective. Modern laptop batteries have circuits inside to tell the computer how much charge they have. Batteries are the weakest link on all notebooks. If it doesn't work even on AC power with no battery, then get a multimeter and check the output of the adapter and compare it with the specs printed on it. It should be no lower than .1 volts from the specified range, for example, if it says 14.2 volts and you measure 13.5 then there is a good change it's bad.

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Review - ATTEN AT9205C - 11 Function Digital Multimeter with Backlit Display and Temperature Measurement

• 11 Function Digital Multimeter
• large Backlit LED Display
• Include "K" Type Thermocouple
• Auto power off function and Hold Reading Button
• Heavy Duty Probes

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Review - Equus 4320 Digital Multimeter, UL/cUL,10 MegOhm

• 10 MegOhm circuitry prevents damage to sensitive automotive electronics
• Includes test lead holders for hands-free testing and is U/L listed for safety and quality
• Uses include automotive circuits, fuses, wiring, vehicle battery & charging systems, electrical components and more
• Household uses include outlets, fuses, wiring, general-purpose batteries, electronic hobbies and more
• Includes easy-to-read instructions in English, French and Spanish

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Preparation for Ignition Coil Test The first thing you want to do is always take the necessary precautions. When working near or around a running engine one must exercise great caution. You should be aware of any loose clothing. If you have long hair you want be careful that it does not make contact with any part of your car's engine and its moving parts.

Testing the ignition coil on your car is one of the fairly easier tasks to perform. It's not that complex nor does it require any special tools or equipment. One thing to keep in mind is that your ignition system produces a great amount of electricity. Should anything go wrong, the result could be very dangerous. Proceed cautiously.

If your coil has already been removed from your vehicle and you need data that is more specific about your coil, you can perform what is called a bench test. Set up the bench test by removing the one spark plug wire from its plug. Then remove the spark plug with a plug socket. Now you want to connect that spark plug back to the spark plug wire. Do this with great care; you don not want anything to fall into the empty spark plug opening or you'll have a problem.

Testing the Ignition Coil: The Bench Test: Grab a pair of insulated pliers. Hold your plug wire with insulated pliers. Now, you need a grounding point so look around your engine for one. You want a spot that is easy to access and that has exposed metal. You could even use the car's engine for this.

Hold the spark plug wire with your insulated pliers and make contact with your chosen grounding spot with the threaded part of your spark plug. Have some one start your car's engine and pay attention to the spark plug gap. You are looking for a bright blue spark to jump across the gap - the electricity. If you can observe this blue spark clearly, even in daylight, then your spark plug is working just fine.

Testing the Ignition Coil: The Multimeter Test There are a number of other tests you can perform for your ignition coil. However, if you want accurate information on the status of your ignition coil then you should perform a multimeter test. This test is far more accurate in determining whether you need to replace the coil or not. It is considered the only proper test for a coil.

You could rely to an extent on the bright blue spark you see in your bench test but if that spark is somewhat weak and your eyes can't really tell, using this spark plug can cause your vehicle to run rough or incorrectly which is the last thing you want.

Let go inside the ignition coil for a moment. The ignition coil contains two coils of wire that are right on top of each other. We refer to these coils as windings. There is a primary winding, the first wire, and a secondary winding, the second wire. The primary winding collects the electricity to create the spark. The secondary winding sends it out to the distributor. It is possible for either of these windings to malfunction causing your vehicle's ignition coil to fail. Sometimes an ignition coil can completely fail meaning it makes absolutely no spark whatsoever.

A multimeter test is performed with the ignition coil completely disconnected. This meter provides numbers to help you determine the status of the coil - far more reliable than a visual assessment. There are different types of digital multimeters and they can be found online or at your local auto repair retailer.

Of course, to use the multimeter, you will have to know the resistance specifications for your ignition coil. If you don't know what they are then refer to your vehicle's service or repair manual for that information.

Testing the Windings  

To test the primary winding of your ignition coil:  

As mentioned above, the primary winding of the ignition coil first collects the electricity or voltage from the car's battery. Have you found the resistance specification for your coil? You will need this before performing the multimeter test. If you do not have them take a moment to locate you service or repair manual for that information.

Once you have found the resistance specifications, locate your digital multimeter. If you have a traditional round coil, you will need to use the multimeter and place the leads on the small, outside poles of your coil. If you have one of the newer enclosed units, then place the leads on indicated or marked poles of your coil.

Observe the reading you get on the multimeter. If the multimeter reads within the range according to the specification in your service manual, then your primary winding is functioning well and you can go on to check the secondary winding. If you find the reading to be even slightly out of the range then you should replace the coil.

To test the secondary winding of your ignition coil: The secondary winding of your ignition coil sends the spark to your distributor and then to the spark plugs. A weak spark or no spark at all is an indication that the coil needs to be replaced.

To test your ignition coil's secondary winding, attach the probes to the outer 12V pole and the center pole of your ignition coil. The center pole is the spot where the main wire is located that connects to the distributor. Again, check the reading to make sure they fall within the specified range as indicated in your car's service manual. If your coil falls within that range all is well. If the reading should fall even slightly out of the specified range, then you should replace your coil. Remember a failing ignition coil will cause your engine to run rough and can cause other problems as well.

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Review - Equus 3347 Digital Multimeter AMP Probe

• Designed to work with all digital multimeters
• Measures parasitic draw
• Ergonomically designed for easy use
• Measure parasitic draw
• Easy to use

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According to the research firm Frost & Sullivan, the estimated size of the North American used test and measurement equipment market was 6.4 million in 2004 and is estimated to grow to 4.5 million by 2011. For over 50 years, companies and governments have procured used test and measurement instruments in order to realize a number of benefits including the need to:
reduce equipment acquisition costs, replace discontinued testing instruments, circumvent lengthy new product delivery times, and conform to legacy standards and specifications.
Although there are many considerations when purchasing used test and measurement instruments, the quality of the instrument and reliability of the vendor should be at the top of the list. Used test equipment vendors deploy a number of bywords that represent the equipment they sell, including "refurbished", "remarketed", "reconditioned", "rebuilt" and, the obvious, "used". These marketing adjectives typically imply various quality processes and buyers of used test equipment should execute their due diligence prior to purchasing.

"Used" or "Remarketed" equipment often describes products sold with an "as-is" supposition. You might purchase used equipment from an end-user organization or auction company that is selling surplus assets. Products sold as "used" should be priced at the lower scale of the market spectrum and it is not uncommon for quality issues to arise with "used" equipment. It is likely that the instruments have not been tested and have an uncertain history. It is only prudent to purchase "Used" equipment if you have the in-house repair and calibration facilities/expertise and are able to procure the item at a cost low enough that the added expense of repair and calibration remains to be a positive, economical outcome.

"Refurbished and Reconditioned" are akin and are the most common presentment of used equipment from equipment dealers. Refurbished equipment is fully tested and calibrated to NIST standards to assure that they meet the original manufacturers' specifications. Refurbished equipment should come with all standard accessories and operating manuals. Malfunctioning internal components will have been replaced or repaired and the product will have been cosmetically cared for including painting and the replacing of face plates, button and knobs. Refurbished equipment is typically sold with a 30-90 day parts/labor warranty and is priced in the middle to high-end of the market spectrum.

Finally, some vendors advertised "Rebuilt" test equipment. Many instrument options are field-installable and can be built-to-order according to the customer's requirements. Some products can even be converted from one generation or version to the next by adding various components. There is absolutely nothing wrong with purchasing rebuilt equipment and, in fact, if you can not find the exact product configuration you are sourcing, you should ask qualified vendors about the possibility adding those options. As with used and refurbished equipment, always exercise caution in choosing a vendor. Assure that the vendor is qualified or uses a qualified electronics laboratory to repair, calibrate and rebuild the products you seek.

Purchasing used, refurbished or rebuilt electronic test equipment is a great way for organizations to save 30-70% on their asset acquisition costs. Warranties and guarantees from used test equipment vendors are formidable. In select product groups, the original equipment manufacturers offer extended warranties in partnership with the vendors that are the selling those products.

Exercise caution and perform due diligence on your vendors. It is most effective to first identify a qualified used equipment vendor and begin a supplier relationship, as opposed to sourcing each instrument you need individually. If your qualified vendor does not have what you are looking for in inventory, it is likely that they will be able to locate it within 24 hours. By first identifying and working with a select few vendors, you will assure consistent quality and economical pricing with every used test equipment purchase.

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Review - Vector VEC008 Digital LCD Voltmeter, 12 Volt

• DIGITAL LCD VOLTMETER 12V

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Review - Equus 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter

• Auto-ranging scales eliminate the need to dial in the correct range when making electronic measurements
• Safe for automotive and household uses
• Large, color-coded LED digital display
• Designed to test AC or DC voltage, batteries, AC and DC currents, resistance, diodes, and continuity
• Color-coded LED's display battery quick check

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The digital pressure gauge is highly on demand in industrial sectors that require the gauging of pressure for proper performance and maintenance of their devices and machineries. Nowadays, the market is full of digital pressure gauges that come with many different features and use advanced technologies for offering accurate and precise results. However, it is always advisable to buy them from well known brands that provide quality performance. Some of the popular brands of digital pressure gauge range are:

Ashcroft digital pressure gauge:

Ashcroft is a leading manufacturer of precision digital gauge. The latest models from this brand offer unmatched accuracy specifications of 0.05% full scale including linearity, repeatability, and hysteresis and temperature compensation from 0 to 150° F. and you need not worry about safety issues while using the digital gauge range from the house of Ashcroft as they are FM approved for intrinsically safe operations, and also are Class 1, Division 1, CE and CSA approved. It is to be mentioned here that almost all the Ashcroft precision digital test gauge has 9 selectable units of measure and 7 different languages. All the digital gauges from this brand are

Sensocon digital pressure gauge:

The Sensocon is a well known manufacturer of pressure gauge that comes with great features and function to suit the specifications of almost all industry sectors. Features include selectable engineering units, digital calibration, direct flow and velocity reading, digitally scaleable 4-20 mA output, and many more. Sensocon pressure gauges are used for monitoring air pressure on compressors, checking tire pressure, monitoring liquid pressures in closed systems, a variety of pharmaceutical applications, as well as petrochemical, semiconductor, and other general process applications.

Get branded digital pressure gauge varieties online:

You can get these digitalized pressure gauges directly from the manufacturer or you can also get both the brands of digital gauge varieties online from a certified distributors of Instrumentation, Controls, and Gauges. This is to ensure that you get the best products in the best prices available. Moreover most of these online destinations are equipped with dedicated customer care team that can help you in getting the best digital gauge that are suitable for your special application requirements. Apart from all these, you also get the benefit of getting your product right at your doorstep, and that too by ordering from the comforts o your home or office with just the click of your mouse.

Need to find some ways to use that leftover meat you had for dinner? Beef, ham, and chicken are three of the most popular meats eaten by consumers, but coming up with different ways to use the leftovers can be a challenge. This article presents some ways you can use beef, ham, and chicken leftovers in ways you may have forgotten or never considered.

1) Use the Roast. Just about everyone loves a good pot roast, and here's another way you can reuse the meat by making roast beef patties. Put the leftover roast pieces in your food processor. Add breadcrumbs, some of the broth from the roast, some chopped onions, salt, pepper, or other spices as you desire. Mince the ingredient in the food processor and -voila!-you now have your own homemade roast beef patties. Just fry them up in a pan and you have delicious beef patties that are perfect for a patty melt or burger.

2) Use the Ham. Ham has a wonderfully distinctive flavor and is versatile for use in many dishes. Here are a few ways you can use your leftover ham: (a) Make a ham pot pie. (b) Use the ham in soups such as split pea and ham, or potato and ham soups. (c) Make Ham patties. Mince the meat in your food processor and use it like ground beef. (d) Slice the ham and use it as a side dish with eggs. (e) Dice it and use it in country scrambles, and omelets. (e) Of course you could always slice the ham to make ham and cheese sandwiches.

3) Use the Chicken. Like beef, chicken is another versatile food that can be used in thousands of ways. Here are a few leftover chicken ideas: (a) Dice it and use it to make a chicken salad. (b) Use it with noodles to make a great chicken noodle dish. (c) Make a chicken pot pie. (d) Make chicken noodle soup. (e) Use the chicken in a casserole. (f) Chicken risotto (g) Make chicken soft tacos (h) Use the bones and carcass to make stock for soup, gravy, and broth. Add carrots, celery, bay leaves, onions, and water, and simmer for several hours for a homemade stock that is more delicious and economical than store-bought.

In conclusion, we have looked at several ideas for using up the leftover beef, ham, and chicken. Using your leftovers in new and unique ways brings variety to your menu and helps save money by not letting your leftover food go to waste.

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Features - Actron CP7677 Automotive TroubleShooter - Digital Multimeter and Engine Analyzer

• Includes protective boot, detachable color-coded test leads and alligator clips
• Automatic zero adjustment for volts and amps for accurate measurements
• Automatic reverse polarity indication
• Overload protection on all ranges and fold-out stand for better viewing
• 1-year warranty

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I have been to a lot of car audio shops that use test lights, and not as many that use digital multimeters. Is one really "better" than the other for finding power sources?

Absolutely! A test light looks like a screwdriver with a sharp pointed end, and consist of a small bulb and a grounding wire or cable. It works by grounding the bulb, and once it comes in contact with a power source, it will complete the circuit and light the bulb. This is the easiest way to test power because the bulb either lights up for power or doesn't if their isn't any power.

The problem with using this type of testing on todays vehicles is the complexity of some of the circuits inside the dash. When you complete the test light circuit on a "hot" wire, you essentially create a small "arc" of electricity that can short some of the more sensitive equipment such as an air bag sensor or relay. I have actually seen one installer blow the airbags out of a new BMW M3 by testing wires with a test light. In most cases, it won't cause any harm, but when it does the cost can be very high.

I highly recommend using a digital multimeter to test circuits. The are very accurate and can tell you a lot of useful information such as voltage, amps, and ohms, all of which are essential to know when building a good sound system.

These multimeters work a little differently than a standard test light. They typically have a battery on board to power the meter, so they don't pull power from the power source, reducing the tendencies to "arc" the power source. They are generally safer to use on sensitive systems than their test light counterparts for this reason.

Digital Multimeters are a great tool for car audio installers, as they can help track down problems in the system. They are also a must have when installing any other 12 volt auto accessories. A test light will light up under power, but wont tell you if you are getting the proper voltage and amps. With a multimeter, you can start at the component taking readings, and work your way backwards until you find the component that is not functioning properly.

Multimeters range from about .00 to over 0.00, and depending on your level of work and how accurate you need to be, you can find one that will work for you. They are a great investment, and will save a lot of headache when you are problem solving a system.

This is not a hard job and on a bad day might take you 2 hours. When I did mine, it took an hour, with most of the time spent letting the cleaning solution sit on the fins and loosen up the dirt. Just so you know, the coil did not look too bad to the naked eye, but I had really high refrigerant pressures when I had my gauges connected to the unit. (A hint for the DIY person.)

A Word of Caution

Beware of electricity! To proceed with coil cleaning, you need to use the disconnect switch which is located near your unit, normally mounted on the wall in close proximity. Code requires one to be there, so if you don't see one, you might need to put this on your to-do-list. Anyway, make sure the unit is electrically isolated even if you need to pull out the multimeter and check. Also, go to the thermostat and move the lever to the "off" position.

Tools You Will Need

No special tools are required for this procedure. All you need is:

* Work Gloves, unless your hands are already calloused.
* Vacuum Cleaner with a soft bristle brush. Best to use a Wet-Vac, not the wife's vacuum.
* Screwdriver/Wrench to remove the top of the condensing unit and fan.
* Water Hose with spray nozzle.
* Cleaning Solution safe for the (normally aluminum) fins and coil (Household cleaners work)
* Breathing Mask, if dust bothers you.
* A few rags to rub down the unit.

Procedure

* Read this article completely before you start the procedure!

* Remove bushes and plants within 2 feet of the unit. Air flow to the unit should be unobstructed.

* Grab the digital camera and take pictures of the unit, top and all four sides. This is a fail safe method for documenting what the unit looked like before you started this procedure and can be used when you are completed.

* Use a hairbrush or whisk broom and GENTLY brush the loose dirt from the fins. Start at the top most section of the fins so the dirt falls down to other fins which have not been cleaned yet. The vacuum with the soft bristle brush will work a little better because it will collect the dirt instead of brushing it on adjacent fins. Brush slowly in the same direction of the fins. Do not bend or deform the fins by being too aggressive.

* Remove the top of the unit (normally screws) to gain access to the inside. This will probably also remove the fan and fan motor, so be careful not to yank the wires. You will have to reposition the top as you proceed with cleaning to get inside the unit better. Note: The top keeps the coil in the proper position on some units which may cause them to lean a bit when the top is removed. Just be careful not to push or lean on the coil once the top is removed and all will be good.

* While the top is off, do a little inspecting for discolored wires, deteriorated tubing insulation and things of that sort. The insulation can be fixed easily, but anything else should be left to the professional.

* Inspect the coils again, this time from the inside of the unit. Use the hairbrush or whisk broom as described above if you discover large amounts of dirt on the coil.

* Clean out all the dirt and debris inside the unit. Use the vacuum or carefully lean inside the unit to use your hands. You will be surprised what you find inside the unit.

* Spray the cleaner on the fins, inside and outside. Let the cleaning solution do the work for you. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes but don't let it dry completely.

* Spray the coil with the garden hose from the inside of the unit towards the outside of the unit. Normally a strong misting stream is best, but you don't want to open the nozzle to full flow which might bend the fins. Experiment with the nozzle pressure till you see a healthy flow shooting out of the opposite side of the fins. Try not to get the electrical components wet, even though they are designed to operate in the rain.

* Inspect the fins and straighten out any that are bent. You can use a dull knife (like a butter knife) or something similar. Just be careful and try to bend the fins one time only. bending them too many times will cause them to break off. Professionals use a fin comb.

* Put the top back on the unit. You might need a little assistance to align the top perfectly, but don't just put it on and push the coil with your hands, this is almost guaranteed to bend fins. Take your time. Get all the screws started before you tighten any of them. Make sure all the screws are tight, but don't overtighten till they strip. Use finesse and be firm, but not strong armed.

* Turn the unit back on and verify proper operation. Make sure there are no new vibrations or noises once you have everything back together. Be prepared to quickly turn the unit off just in case.

* Pat yourself on the back and remember the steps because you now have the bragging rights and a subject of conversation for someone who has never cleaned their condensing unit/heat pump.

Side Issue

I am the kind of person who has to document things. While you are letting the cleaner work, go ahead and write down all the information on the condensing unit name plate. You should find things like the manufacturers name, unit model, serial number, testing pressures and electrical data. The inside of the unit might have the compressor manufacturer, type of compressor, etc. I also take several pictures of everything: before and after, outside of the unit, inside of the unit, close up of the nameplate data, basically a picture of anything that strikes you as looking important. Then I run up to my computer, add a folder under My Documents and dump this information inside. I have folders for my condensing unit, my air handling unit, my tiller, my refrigerator, my oven, etc. Sounds like an overkill to most, until you need the information.

After Cleaning your Unit

When the coils of your condensing unit are cleaned, some people notice a remarkable improvement in system operation like colder air coming out of the registers, less run time of the system (thus less electrical usage) and a decreased humidity level inside the house. On the other hand, some people wonder why they even bothered cleaning it because it is so old or in such bad shape. If your unit is nearing the age of replacement, let me help you with solid advice about replacement options.

You are probably already aware of some of the more common methods that identity thieves use to steal personal information. These methods include dumpster diving, phishing, mail theft, and stealing sales receipts or credit card numbers from a merchant to name a few. However, there are many other not-so-obvious sources that thieves can obtain someone's personal information from. Often security is lax or virtually non-existent, which makes an easy target for someone looking to steal information. These sources of potential identity theft include:

Doctor's office or health insurance company, were a Social Security number is used as a policy number or account number. County Recorders Office containing the deed to your house. County Court or Administration Building. Lots of personal information is stored here, including birth certificate, marriage license, family address, SS numbers telephone numbers and numerous other personal details. School database, where thieves hack into the system with a laptop stolen from the school or staff member Auto Dealerships where you purchased your cars. Dealers often attach your latest credit report to your purchase document, which can be easily accessed by employees who want to steal information. Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) where your personal information can be easily obtained. Social Security Administration Earning Statements that are mailed out each year. Current and previous employers. HR departments maintain a lot of personal information on their past and present employees such as SS number, past and current address, W-2 forms, medical insurance applications, retirement account information, etc. HR departments of businesses where you have applied for employment in the past. Check cashing stores. Grocery store "Preferred Customer" clubs. Library Cards

With identity theft such a growing problem in America and elsewhere, it pays to be vigilant and proactive with your personal ID information. Review your bank and credit account statement often, and be sure to know what's in your credit report. You can order a free credit report at AnnualCreditReport.com. While ignorance may be bliss, when it comes to your identity, what you don't know can cause you financial grief. Take action now.

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Features - Equus 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor

• Displays the condition of the battery and charging system
• Designed for 12-volt negative ground systems
• Protects the engine computer and 12-volt accessories from surges
• Easily plugs into a cigarette lighter or power receptacle
• Head pivots for easy viewing and angle adjustment

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